eyesing

Daphne Shopaholic Guinness

When I made my recent Chanel-in-a-charity-shop discovery, I did devote a decent amount of brain power to the question, "what kind of crazy shoves a whole load of Chanel into a garbage bag and drops the booty off at their local Vinnies?" Surely you would sell them on ebay or put them a designer consignment store...

Or keep the whole darn lot.

Now there's an idea.

Anyway, Daphne Guinness...

of the Irish for-good-health-drink-three-square-meals-of-beer-a-day Guinness family had a wardrobe clear out recently, and fortunately she's not cuckoo enough to dump her rejects in a clothing bin. Instead she's being sensible and she's selling a load of designer bargains through the Kerry Taylor auction house.

A review of the 267 lots does lead me to ask some other questions. Firstly, how much freaking clothing does she have if she's dumping 96 pairs of sunglasses and 393 pairs of shoes?

Seriously.

!!!!

The mind boggles, doesn't it?

Anyway...

Why on earth would you get rid of these fabulous red suede Alaia boots?

A pair of Azzedine Alaïa red suede knee-high boots, with slim wedge heel, black lace-up front and side zip, size 36, (2)
Price guide: £80-£120

Who buys Balenciaga and then doesn't wear it?? 

A group of Balenciaga jackets and separates, including: an unworn cream linen cropped jacket with shaped waistline; two miniskirts, one black lycra with layers of pleats and broderie anglaise; black leather shirt and others, sizes 36 and 38

Price guide: £100-150

Who doesn't treat any garment designed for Albert Elbaz for Lanvin like it's the crown jewels, much less sell it?

A Lanvin brown silk shredded ribbon dress, Autumn 2004, the ribbons caught at waist and hem of skirt, with low V neck and back, size 36
Price guide: £300-£500

Who wouldn't buy this ensemble, prance about it in looking fabulous and then continue to have the option of prancing about looking amazing in this ensemble if you so chose?

An Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche leopard-print ensemble, comprising: slim-fitting silk pencil skirt; patchwork chiffon blouse, the seams crudely overstitched native-style, front-lacing; and zip-fronted silk and tulle safari-style waistcoat, average bust 32in 81cm, waist 26in 66cm, (3)
Price guide: £100-£150

Why don't I have size 37 feet? And why haven't I reached a place in my life where it is conceiveably practical to own a pair of ridiculous red suede platforms such as these ie why don't i have a band of sherpas on hand to carry me about the place whenever I decide I'm going to wear these shoes.

A fabulous pair of Christian Dior red suede platform wedges, with multiple straps, patent black ankle strap, covered in pointed metal studs, size approx 37, (2)
Price guide: £100-£150

What's Daphne going to wear to her next "Dress as your favourite Inca punk llama and roast guinea pigs over a campfire" fancy dress event?

A Christian Dior woollen hat, Autumn-Winter 2002, in browns, cream and grey, with mohawk fringing
Price guide: £40-£60

How can I make this Junya Watanabe trenchcoat mine? And does it bother anyone else that someone-or-other-at-Kerry-Taylor-Auctions forgot to do that button up (second on the left)?

A group of Junya Watanabe jackets and separates, mainly black and white, including: black and white woven cotton double-breasted trench coat with metal buttons; knitted grey jumper with bondage straps; oversized white multi-layered cotton jacket, all size S.

Is it really stupid to buy one of these big lots, which I can't see properly at all, and pray that I'll be able to sell anything that sucks/doesn't fit on ebay for a tidy profit?

A group of Ann Demeulemeester jackets and separates, including: grey cracked leather double-breasted trenchcoat; four short black jackets; unworn cream satin dress with open back, original price £430, and others, sizes 34 to 38, (14)
Price guide: £250-£400

More about Daphne Guinness here, here, here and here.

Oh Joy! Aw Derr! The Highs And Lows Of Op Shopping In Cremorne

For the past year or so I've had a job that I'm not entirely loving, in an office located in a very affluent suburb. Added to that, there are a number of op shops or thrift stores within lunch-hour-walking distance of my desk. The haze of work-induced depression invariably makes a perusal of the rails of St Vincent de Paul in search of a vintage "pick me up" seem like an excellent idea... almost every day.

Excellent for wardrobe choice, terrible for the bank balance. Yes, you can shop yourself onto Struggle Street by purchasing from charitable organisations.

Take yesterday for example.

I started the day with a jog on the beach, which meant I was able to justify the trolley loads of fat and sugar that come with Small Bondi Meal from Oporto. The route to the aforementioned fast food chain passed the Neutral Bay branch of Vinnies. I barely have two pennies to rub together at the moment, but of course I had to go and just check... you know...

Hark!
What is that I see?
Do my eyes deceive me?
Can it be?
No!
Yes!
A Chanel suit!
For the measly sum of $80!
!!!

I reminded myself I had no money. I was strong. I walked away. I told myself it just wasn't meant to be.

Then of course, over my Small Bondi Meal, I strategised about how I would juggle my finances and in fact purchase that suit. And purchase I did.

Now I just have to wait for colder weather to wear it.

So, those are the highs of op shopping in Cremorne. The lows? The person who manages the Mosman branch of Vinnies is a total ninny and has "cleaned up" and "winterised" the store. This involves stripping back all the clutter that does make a fabulous op shop and taking away all the dresses, with the exception of those that can be described as "winter dresses."

We live in Sydney. It's not that cold. People will still be interested in shirtdresses in April and May and all the way through to September.

Grrr.

I suppose it doesn't matter really... I am finishing up at this serotonin-depleting job on Friday and departing for lands less fertile in charity shops. Hopefully this means more room in the closet and more money in the bank!

Le point de vue de Vogue francaise

Ebay seller hautecouture_fr is at it again with a delectable set of 1930s vintage Vogue francaise on offer...

Bless hautecouture_fr for posting such big beautiful scans. I've been right-click-save-to-desktop-ing like crazy.

Some of my favourite spreads and covers.

Vogue, June 1932

Vogue, October 1928

Click on image for a closer look at the non-invasive cosmetic procedures available in 1928 (bottom left illustration)

Vogue, September 1933

Vogue, June 1934

Vogue, February 1932

My previous post on Vogue Edition Francaise vintage covers

Fashion’s four-letter word

Today I’m going to talk dirty.

For fashion’s sake I’m about to blaspheme.

Are you ready?

No, ok, some background first of all. At any given point in time there is always one thing that is seen as unspeakably awful in fashion. When I was a teenager it was flares, in 1999 it was tight jeans, in 2002 it was high waists. The only time these fashion unmentionables get an outing is at fancy dress parties. However in a matter of a few years these fashion pariahs start popping up and soon every woman and the Olsens are wearing whatever it was that once seemed inconceivable.

As the owner of an almost exclusively secondhand wardrobe, I like to explore the styles of decades past and in doing so tackle these fashion taboos head on. And, generally my efforts are greeting with… silence. Example: a couple of years ago I wore high waisted jeans to a friend’s BBQ, which was admittedly attended by a group of lovely people who ain’t exactly fashion forward… Crickets chirping… It’s like you frighten people by stepping outside socially accepted fashion norms. Of course, after everyone has recovered from the shock of me wearing whatever it is, a smart arse comment from a fashion Neanderthal follows. And then… and then… the compliments come… often in secret… people who can see what I’m getting at but aren’t ready to wear it themselves will sidle up and say something nice. It’s nice. Compliments are nice.

In the past, my expeditions into fashion isolation have involved some degree of forward planning. It starts with a ponder, “Hmmm… I think I fancy a [insert garment in sartorial exile]…” and a focussed quest through the rails of charity shops soon follows.

So anyway, it is with surprise that I suddenly find myself with a number of garments that entail one of today’s fashion four-letter words… pads… as in shoulder pads. Yes, I am as surprised as you are. I didn’t plan this, but it’s happened. It’s very strange. I used to merrily unpick any shoulder pad that crossed my path. But last week I found myself kicking myself for ripping out some shoulder pads because the dress looked better with them in. Can you imagine?

My boyfriend is against the shoulder pads. I think he’s scared of them. Hell, I’m scared of them… but I’m gonna go with it anyway, especially after seeing the Super Bodies exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria last week. Sourced mostly from two private collections (I wish I could meet the women who wore these creations), the exhibtion featured fashion from the power-dressing era (80s and 90s) with pieces by designers like Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Jean Paul Gaultier and Issey Miyake. Was great to learn about the designers’ influences (it’s always their childhood) and so for these designers the big shoulder, small waist is derived from the forties. Fascinating no?

Iman rocking Thierry Mugler in 1988

And now for some grid iron-esque ebay gems and other entertaining examples of power dressing.

Thierry Mugler Lamb Leather Jacket
Buy it here

Thierry Mugler dress

Buy it here

Thierry Mugler black velvet trim dress

Buy it here

Thierry Mugler suit
Buy it here

Thierry Mugler jacket

Ooh another Thierry Mugler jacket

More information
Thierry Mugler NY Times interview
New York Times article: Future Shock
Claude Montana info

Kerry Taylor Auctions - ebay for haute couture

As outlined in previous posts (here and here), my bout of back-to-work depression triggered an intense period of ebaying. Currently I am expecting the delivery of five exciting parcels:

Claude Montana pant suit
This suit made me feel a little bit scared... even the word suit makes me scared.. but I had to have cos sometimes scared is good, you know? Boyfriend is almost guaranteed to hate.

Thierry Mugler dress
Shitty photo but this is gorgeous... can't wait.

Lanvin silk shirtdress
I like this dress. My boyfriend, rather unkindly pointed out that it bears a certain similarity to the Aaahh!!! Real Monsters cartoon (see below). Unfortunately I can see what he's saying.

Thierry Mugler cats eye sunglasses
Wayfarers are so over. I feel quite confident about his purchase, also because Chloe Sevigny, pioneer of the Wayfarer trend (actually I think my friend Jo was onto that trend before Chloe) has included a pair of cats eye shades in her Linda Farrow range, as reported by susie bubble here.

Salvatore Ferragamo lace-ups
Cute. They're a narrow fit... my feet are kind of wide... my fingers crossed.

Oh the hypocrisy of sniffing at people who buy "it bags" when I am such a label whore!

Anyway, if I was financially able I would lift up my sartorial anchor and take my designer vintage treasure hunt to the high seas... and start shopping at places like Decades in LA and the costume and textile specialist, Kerry Taylor Auctions in London. Take a look at the tasty lots in their next sale...

A Pierre Cardin pink satin crescent bag
Probably 1970s, the ivory satin interior stamped in gold `Pierre Cardin, Paris, hand made', with black cord shoulder strap, 25cm, 10in

Low Estimate: £ 200
High Estimate: £ 300

A Pierre Balmain degradé chiffon evening gown
circa 1970, with sample/catwalk label stamped Pierre Balmain Geneviève, and also with subsidiary labels `411-Aurora' and Barbara 411', the pale peach chiffon becoming a warmer tangerine at the hem, brocaded with gold spots overall, with pendant chiffon trains to each shoulder edged in ostrich plumes, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in

Low Estimate: £ 700
High Estimate: £ 1000

Claude Montana His 'n Hers leather ensembles
Early 1980s, labelled, comprising black bomber jackets with scarlet leather lapels, piping and zippered gussets to the arms, the back panels with elaborate cutwork mesh enclosing a red ball with the initials `CM; pair of matching male trousers; a tight black leather pencil skirt with zippered back slit; a man's black and red knitted sweater and matching scarf; a pair of Maud Frizon black and red stilletoes with ankle straps, size 36; a pair of Mikli for Montana black and red abstract sunglasses, ladies jacket approx 102cm, 40in, skirt waist 66cm 26in; male sweater and jacket chest 127cm, 50in, male trouser waist 91cm, 36in, (9) This ensemble was exhibited at the Musée des Arts de la Mode, Summer 2006 as part of their major menswear exhibition.

I totally remember those glasses... someone famous wore them in the 80s. Anyone know who and where?

Low Estimate: £ 1800
High Estimate: £ 2500

Jean Dessès chiné rose print taffeta cocktail dress
Circa 1959, detached label, with corsetted inner bodice, with inner and outer taffeta skirts and layers of tulle petticoats, the overskirt draped and caught in place with a massive bow to one side, matching belt, bust 96cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in.

Low Estimate: £ 600
High Estimate: £ 900

Gorgeous. I want.

Pierre Balmain couture ombre brown chiffon cocktail dress
Early 1970s, unlabelled, the beige silk crepe under-dress with overlay of chiffon dyed in graduated tones, goffered pleats to the waist, with belt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 72cm, 28in, (2)

Low Estimate: £ 100
High Estimate: £ 150

Gianni Versace tiger-beaded sheath
Circa 1994, couture labelled and size 40, the empire-line bodice adorned with strands of tiger-effect beading over tiger-printed silk, textural gold embroidery highlighted with topaz pastes and brilliants, with graduated black and gold beaded fringes, broad jewelled straps, the skirt a simple black silk jersey sheath, bust 86cm, 34in

Low Estimate: £ 2000
High Estimate: £ 3000

If I won this I'd hold a 90s theme party and go as Donatella Versace.

More information:
Kerry Taylor Auctions
Aaahh!!! Real Monsters

Christian Dior shirt

Me oh my!

What print! What a fabric! What a shirt!

It reminds me of those bathmats...

Oh how I lament the popularity of polyester in the 60s and 70s... There were so many great prints in that period but poly is just too vile to wear.

Buy this shirt
Aside from my opinions on the fabrication of this item, the ebay store Retro Couture Boutique offers an excellent selection. Let me know if you purchase anything...

ebay binge update - Christian Dior turban

I've been waiting for the angel on my shoulder to put the breaks on my ebay binge. Unfortunately it's been shouted down by the devil on my other shoulder who chants "Buy it! Buy it!" so I've been bidding away merrily and regretting shortly after. Anyway, there are other ebay bingers out there too so I missed out on this lovely Christian Dior turban. On one hand I'm sad because it's beautiful, on the other hand I'm glad because I am a hat chicken and would probably wear it once... for about 15 minutes... Anyway, regardez-vous le chapeau jolie.